What We Saw at New York Bridal Fashion Week
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“There is greater appreciation and dedication to making this special day momentous after so many cancellations,” said Stephanie White, the founder and creative director of bridal line Odylyne the Ceremony.
“The energy of excitement for 2022 and 2023 is really big right now and brides are more daring,” she added.
It was this mood that dominated last week’s New York Bridal Fashion Week, which took place from April 4 to 8 and mostly in person for the first time since the pandemic began.
Like the grander dresses that almost announce “I’m finally getting married after many delays,” the new bridal collections for fall 2022 and spring 2023 focused largely on fabric, detailing and new silhouettes.
“With our new collection, we wanted to show the craftsmanship behind the dresses,” said Sarah Swann, the chief creative officer at Amsale, a bridal atelier in New York City. “There is more couture and couture-like skill and lots of tailoring for exceptional fit.”
Shawne Jacobs, the creative director of Anne Barge and president of its parent company S. Jacobs, noted, too, that many brides were “savvier and more educated in what they want.”
Here are some highlights from the latest bridal collections.
Bridal designers made the traditional lace wedding dress fresh and contemporary. With a nod to the grand gowns of decades past (à la Grace Kelly and company), long-sleeved tulle bodices with high necklines were hand embroidered with oversize flowers for a modern look.
“Classic is still very popular,” said Ms. Jacobs, whose new collection featured a mock-neck, column gown with allover sequined floral embroidery. “But today’s brides want it more fashion forward, so that it stands out.”
The designer Sareh Nouri showed a taffeta ball gown with a floral-embroidered tulle bodice. Verdin Bridal’s interpretation of this timeless look was a romantic, tulle ball gown with a detachable 3-D floral-embroidered jacket.
Part traditional train and part theatrical cape, the Watteau train added an air of formality with a bit of an edge this season. On mini dresses, sheaths and ball gowns, the Watteau train was worn attached to shoulders or the back of bodices for a grand entrance and then easily removed to transform the look for the post-ceremony celebration.
A floral jacquard fit-to-flare gown by Amsale featured a detachable Watteau cape. Rivini added a detachable floating tulle Watteau cape to a beaded lace sheath. And Monique Lhuillier’s floral embroidered mini dress was unforgettable with a matching, trailing Watteau train.
Designers also answered the bride’s call for an equally dramatic alternative to a veil or cape with long tulle streamers that drape from the shoulders and trail behind a gown.
Ines by Ines Di Santo used tulle streamers to play up a shimmery, sleeveless A-line gown. GALA by Galia Lahav used tulle streamers to double as long, fairylike illusion sleeves. And Watters framed a V-open back on a frothy tulle A-line gown with ethereal layers of tulle streamers.
The puffy-sleeve wedding dress that was popular in the 1980s is back in favor with a modern update. No longer overwhelming and stiff, this cheeky detail adds dimension and movement to a bridal look.
There were detachable and removable short puffy sleeves on ball gown, A-line and mermaid silhouettes in a variety of luxurious fabrics, from embroidered silk tulle to light-as-air taffeta. Reem Acra showed a regal, sleeveless silk faille ball gown with playful puff sleeves. Monique Lhuillier detailed a Juliet-esque, silk-and-tulle ball gown with a lace-up back and removable puff sleeves. And Halfpenny London’s billowy gown of packable, lightweight taffeta (good for a destination wedding) is accented by matching voluminous puff sleeves.
There was a return to strapless styles, too. “More brides want bare shoulders again for the drama and elegance after two years of not dressing up,” said Sharon Sever, the head designer for Galia Lahav.
Offering the best of both worlds, designers showed strapless wedding gowns with removable long sleeves, detailed with a trendy pouf for extra measure, as with Lihi Hod’s slim-cut silk Mikado dress, Rivini’s silk fit-and-flare gown with a bubble skirt, and Willowby’s satin fitted gown with a slightly draped bodice.
Brides are ready to party — and gowns with festive feathers or fringe suit that mood. “I believe 2022 will bring endless options and brides are going all out in fashionable and memorable ways,” designer Ines Di Santo said.
Inspired by the Roaring ’20s, this look works as a bride’s main dress or as her second look. Ms. Di Santo’s new collection includes an embroidered, halter midi sheath with a feather skirt. Hermione de Paula presented an embroidered tulle column dress with a dropped waist and long-fringe hemline, while Dana Harel detailed a slim-fitting tulle gown with flirty feathers.
And because designers know that feathers aren’t just for dressing up a gown, Monique Lhuillier showed her collection with a statement shoe embellished with delicate, look-at-me plumes.
Pantsuits, trousers and jumpsuits were also part of the bridal offering. “There are so many different types of brides and designers want to show them a new way of dressing for their wedding,” Ms. Swann said. “For same-sex weddings or the bride who wants more than one look for her big day, there are many more choices.”
Amsale debuted a peplum tuxedo suit complete with a detachable tulle skirt. Nadia Manjarrez Studio Bridal introduced a matte crepe jumpsuit with a slight peplum bustier and side leg slits. And Costarellos paired a dotted net shirt with voluminous sleeves and chic trousers for a look that befits a prenuptial event or honeymoon.
Your pollen allergies are overwhelming? This might be why
Pollen has exploded to eye-watering levels this spring in some parts of the country after warm weather pushed plants out of their winter slumber much earlier than normal.
In Atlanta, the pollen count sky rocketed to “extremely high” in early March and stayed high through much of April, according to the Atlanta Allergy and Asthma physicians practice. Farther north in Washington, DC, allergy sufferers have been dreading the lime-green film of pollen covering that covers windshields and porches and piles up on streets and sidewalks.
But these aren’t isolated trends. As the planet warms, researchers say allergy season is starting earlier and lasting longer. And a study from the journal Nature published last year found that pollen count is projected to increase by 200% by the end of the century if planet-warming pollution continues to rise.
Climate Central, a nonprofit focused on climate news and research, recently analyzed how warmer temperatures have affected allergy season in 203 US cities since 1970.
It found that on average, the growing season – the period between the last freeze in spring to the first freeze of fall – is lasting 16 days longer in the Southeast, 15 days longer in the Northeast and 14 days longer in the South.
In the West, growing season is 27 days longer on average, Climate Central reported. Reno, Nevada, for example, has seen a shocking increase of 99 days.
And a longer growing season means a longer allergy season.
Because of climate change, we’re now seeing an earlier and longer growing season for plants, which of course make pollen, which is the enemy of many Americans that suffer from pollen allergies – and mold allergies as well,” Lauren Casey, a meteorologist with Climate Central, told CNN. “Pollen can also trigger an asthma attack, which of course is much more serious for people that suffer from asthma.”
When plants reproduce, typically during the spring, many release tiny pollen grains that are carried by wind. The pollen grains are small enough to be inhaled, and some people’s immune systems react very poorly to the miniscule particles.
More than 24 million people in the US have pollen-induced respiratory allergies like hay fever, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. The center’s data shows that more than one in four adults suffered from seasonal allergies in 2021.
A longer and earlier start to pollen season could trigger a public health emergency, researchers say. As temperatures get warmer in the South and drought plagues the Southwest, pollen from plants like ragweed or poaceae – a plant that typically grows in grasslands or salt-marshes – is projected to be higher across those regions than in the North.
Wind-driven pollen, which plays an important role in plant fertilization, is closely tied to temperature and precipitation changes. So, as spring seasons get warmer earlier due to climate change, plants could pollinate much earlier and for a longer period of time than they currently do.
Mold allergens on the rise
Plant pollen isn’t the only trigger of seasonal allergies. Mold, a type of fungi that reproduces with tiny airborne spores, can also be allergenic for some people and can exacerbate seasonal allergies, according to the report.
While outdoor mold is not as well-studied as pollen, according to the report, one thing is clear: Warmer and wetter weather – conditions that many locations are seeing more of amid the climate crisis – is favorable for mold development.
The Facebook Papers may be the biggest crisis in the company’s history
Facebook has confronted whistleblowers, PR firestorms and Congressional inquiries in recent years. But now it faces a combination of all three at once in what could be the most intense and wide-ranging crisis in the company’s 17-year history.
On Friday, a consortium of 17 US news organizations began publishing a series of stories — collectively called “The Facebook Papers” — based on a trove of hundreds of internal company documents which were included in disclosures made to the Securities and Exchange Commission and provided to Congress in redacted form by Facebook whistleblower Frances Haugen’s legal counsel. The consortium, which includes CNN, reviewed the redacted versions received by Congress.
CNN’s coverage includes stories about how coordinated groups on Facebook (FB) sow discord and violence, including on January 6, as well as Facebook (FB)’s challenges moderating content in some non-English-speaking countries, and how human traffickers have used its platforms to exploit people.
The reports from CNN, and the other outlets that are part of the consortium, follow a month of intense scrutiny for the company. The Wall Street Journal previously published a series of stories based on tens of thousands of pages of internal Facebook documents leaked by Haugen. (The consortium’s work is based on many of the same documents.)
The publication of the Journal’s “Facebook Files,” which raised concerns about the impact of Instagram on teen girls, among other issues, prompted a Senate subcomittee hearing with Facebook head of global safety Antigone Davis. Haugen herself then testified before the Senate subcommittee, during which she said she believes that “Facebook’s products harm children, stoke division, and weaken our democracy.”
There’s currently no end in sight for Facebook’s troubles. Members of the subcommittee have called for Facebook CEO Mark Zuckerberg to testify. And on Friday, another former Facebook employee anonymously filed a complaint against the company to the SEC, with allegations similar to Haugen’s.
Facebook has dealt with scandals over its approach to data privacy, content moderation and competitors before. But the vast trove of documents, and the many stories surely still to come from it, touch on concerns and problems across seemingly every part of its business: its approach to combatting hate speech and misinformation, managing international growth, protecting younger users on its platform and even its ability to accurately measure the size of its massive audience.
All of this raises an uncomfortable question for the company: Is Facebook actually capable of managing the potential for real-world harms from its staggeringly large platforms, or has the social media giant become too big not to fail?
Facebook tries to turn the page
Facebook, for its part, has repeatedly tried to discredit Haugen, and said her testimony and reports on the documents mischaracterize its actions and efforts.
“At the heart of these stories is a premise which is false,” a Facebook spokesperson said in a statement to CNN. “Yes, we’re a business and we make profit, but the idea that we do so at the expense of people’s safety or wellbeing misunderstands where our own commercial interests lie.”
In a tweet thread last week, the company’s Vice President of Communications, John Pinette, called the Facebook Papers a “curated selection out of millions of documents at Facebook” which “can in no way be used to draw fair conclusions about us.” But even that response is telling –— if Facebook has more documents that would tell a fuller story, why not release them? (During her Senate testimony Facebook’s Davis said Facebook is “looking for ways to release more research.”)
Instead, Facebook is now reportedly planning to rebrand itself under a new name as early as this week, as the wave of critical coverage continues. (Facebook previously declined to comment on this report.) The move appears to be a clear attempt to turn the page, but a fresh coat of paint won’t fix the underlying issues outlined in the documents — only Facebook, or whatever it may soon be called, can do that.
Take the example of a report published by the Journal on September 16 that highlighted internal Facebook research about a violent Mexican drug cartel, known as Cartél Jalisco Nueva Generación. The cartel was said to be using the platform to post violent content and recruit new members using the acronym “CJNG,” even though it had been designated internally as one of the “Dangerous Individuals and Organizations” whose content should be removed. Facebook told the Journal at the time that it was investing in artificial intelligence to bolster its enforcement against such groups.
Despite the Journal’s report last month, last week identified disturbing content linked to the group on Instagram, including photos of guns, and photo and video posts in which people appear to have been shot or beheaded. After asked Facebook about the posts, a spokesperson confirmed that multiple videos flagged were removed for violating the company’s policies, and at least one post had a warning added.
setting Boston Bruins blow 3-1 series lead, eliminated by Florida Panthers from NHL playoffs
The President’s Trophy curse will continue for at least another year as the Boston Bruins fell to the Florida Panthers 4-3 Sunday in an electric Game 7 of the first round of the NHL playoffs.
The Panthers got out to a quick start, going up 2-0. The high-powered Bruins came storming back, scoring three unanswered goals to take the lead.
With a minute left in the third period and the fans at TD Garden in Boston going wild, the Panthers’ Brandon Montour scored to tie the game and send it to overtime, silencing the home crowd.
fter a couple of scoring chances in the overtime period for both teams, Panthers center Carter Verhaeghe scored to eliminate the Bruins from the playoffs.
Florida completed an improbable comeback, from being down 3-1 in the series to winning three straight games to advance to the next round.
The Bruins, who broke the NHL record for most wins (65) and most points (135) in a single season, join a list of teams who took home the President’s Trophy and did not win the Stanley Cup. The President’s Trophy is awarded to the team that finishes the regular season with the most points.
The last team to win the award and the Cup in the same year was the Chicago Blackhawks in the 2012-2013 season. The Bruins, who have won the Trophy two other times in the last 10 years, were eliminated both times in the second round of the playoffs (2013-2014, 2019-2020).
The Panthers will face the Toronto Maple Leafs in the second round.
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